How good is the soup … from the lake!


Freshwater fish he is no longer the pale cousin of the one who swims in the sea. In recent years, knowledge of aquaculture has grown to such an extent that the species of rivers, lakes and streams have acquired once unimaginable delicacies and elegance. And then, they are fish that travel less and therefore in general more sustainable of noble relatives. So why not try your hand at a soup of perch, whitefish, lake trout or char? The game is to ask the diners to guess the species served. Do you bet that, at the end of the tasting, almost everyone will list only salt water samples? Of course, all the other ingredients must also be chosen well. They must be selected by producers who monitor the entire supply chain. From A to Z.

How to prepare a lake soup for 4 people

In 45 minutes it will be ready to taste!

800 g fillets of char, perch, salmon trout, rainbow trout
4 carrots
2 stalks of celery
1 small leek
1/2 fennel
1/2 onion
honey vinegar
150 g fresh cream
2 egg yolks
White wine
salt and pepper

Chop 1 carrot, 1/2 stalk of celery, a piece of leek and one of fennel; sauté everything in a saucepan with 20 g of butter; then blend with 1/2 glass of white wine, add 700 g of water and simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the rest of the vegetables reduced to chunks or sticks; after 3 minutes of cooking, add the fish, in small slices. Cook all together for another 2 minutes. Drain the fish and vegetables with a slotted spoon. Mix the cream with the egg yolks, 2 teaspoons of honey vinegar, salt and pepper; pour into the broth, stirring until it boils, then turn off the heat and add the dill and chives. Distribute fish and vegetables on the plates, complete with the broth and serve with rye bread.

Virtuous production chains

The fish

1. Strict respect for the cycles of nature, the periods of reproduction of the species and the stop of fishing
2. Immediate and on-site processing of the catch
3. Preservation of the eggs of the fish caught and reintroduction of the fry in the lake
4. Direct purchase in Solcio or daily delivery to the fish market in Milan, by refrigerated vehicles

Active for over four decades in a small village on the Piedmontese shore of Lake Maggiore, the Fishermen’s Cooperative of the Gulf of Solcio, in the Municipality of Lesa, specializes in fishing, preparation and enhancement of the best lake species: char, perch, zander, rainbow trout …



1. Research and exchange of vegetable and herb seeds with producers from all over Europe
2. Crops in small quantities and in full regime
3. No to genetic manipulation, monocultures and crops
4. Vegetable gardens alongside small farms of zebu, donkeys, goats and wild turkeys, precious for the conservation of ecosystems

Harald Gasser and Petra Ottavi have been managing the Aspinger farm, a few hectares that guard over 420 varieties of vegetables, wild herbs and edible flowers, often rare or forgotten. They are very attentive to the creation and preservation of biodiversity and permaculture, with the sowing of many varieties in disuse.
For example, there are five cultivated onions: Zittau Yellow, Braunschweig Blood, Tropea, Stuttgart Bison and Wild Onion.

Honey vinegar

1. First anaerobic / alcoholic fermentation of honey that gives life to mead
2. Second aerobic fermentation which transforms alcohol into acetic acid
3. Mead left to stand in oak barrels
4. Acetification carried out only on the surface, in a heated environment and indirectly the raw material

Thun honeys, in Vigo di Ton in Trentino, is the product of the genius of the unforgettable Andrea Paternoster, “nomad of honey”, the gentleman who, first in Italy, declined gender in the plural “because”, he liked to say, “nature it has given infinite possibilities ». Produced in a few hundred liters, honey vinegar comes from only two ingredients, the nectar of bees and water from the Alpine spring. It is produced according to the static-superficial method, the oldest in existence.


1.Panna produced by Inalpi, in Piedmont, with precise traceability of the stables, food and quality of life of the cows
2.The raw cream is handcrafted pasteurized by Pandì in Galgagnano, in the Lodi area; it has a fat content of 38%, and a whipping speed and stability, once whipped, much higher than other creamers
3. It has a shelf life of about 15 days (compared to 10 for the average).

Marco Vaghi is one of the greatest connoisseurs, refiners and distributors of cheeses in Northern Italy. His shop in San Genesio (Pavia) is a treasure chest. It distributes the Pandì cream, with a very full and intense taste.

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Text by Gabriele Zanatta


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