From fried fillets in batter to meatballs, from the classic stewed version to tartare: this is how they cook cod in Rome and the places where you can taste it
TO Rome the salted cod it’s serious. From the traditional fillets that are tasted above all in the streets of the Ghetto or towards Campo de ‘Fiori to cod with peppers. The recipe handed down for generations says that cod should be kept under running water and soaked for 12 hours. Once barbed, it is divided into fillets which are left to soak for another 5 hours. The Romans are so fond of cod that fifteen thousand crowded the show cooking of Rome Cod, event just ended.
The modern taverns and restaurants frequented by tourists offer many reinterpretations of cod, even in a lighter key. We have chosen five, in various districts of the capital.
The Oste at the Banchi Vecchi, via dei Banchi Vecchi 140 / A, tel. 06 87656724
In this tavern in the historic center, with red and white checked tablecloths and a white wooden sideboard, the hand of chef Maria Luisa Zaia approaches the cod, which her grandmother cooked on Tuesdays and Fridays, with legumes. The recipe proposed on the menu from September to May is that of chickpea cream with codfish balls and crispy rosemary bread. But there is no shortage of fried cod fillets with a lot of filling and a little batter. Because, as the host says: “We sell cod”.
Proloco Trastevere, via Goffredo Mameli 23, tel. 06 45596137
Traditional tavern on the slopes of the Janiculum with external dehors, combines the Calabrian and Lucanian origins of the owners, Elisabetta Guaglianone and Vincenzo Mancino, in the recipe of stewed cod with IGP cruschi peppers coming directly from Senise and purple Viterbo potatoes that give a note of color to the plate. Also on the menu is the Heart of cod with bean mayonnaise and sorrel from aquaponics.
Velavevodetto ai Quiriti, piazza dei Quiriti 4, tel. 06 36000009
In the Prati district, chef Loredana Santarelli, who is part of the Ostissimi association, proposes both the classic fried cod fillet in batter and a first course of hand-made dumplings with Avezzano potatoes on the hand-laid straw paper menu. collection, Pecorino Dol (of Lazio origin), field chicory and raw cod put in creaming. All made with Monti cod, a leading company in the sector in the province of Teramo.
Beverly, largo Benedetto Marcello 220, tel. 06 94502700
A stone’s throw from Villa Borghese, in the Pinciano-Parioli district, this brand new design address with outdoor space and comfortable seating on the ground floor of The Hoxton, Rome brings to the table a reinterpretation of cod in a contemporary key: chickpea fritters, creamed cod ‘Sabina oil, lemon. Chef Alessandro Stefoni, from Gualtiero Marchesi and Francesco Apreda’s apprenticeship and experiences in India, Spain and England, desalted the cod (Orme) for three days and then whipped it with milk.
Rosario Ristorante, Levante seafront 54, Fregene, tel. 366 2386289
On the beach preferred by the Romans, chef Rosario Malapena, son of art (his family runs fishmongers), opts for a fresh cod that does not need to be desalted (Icelandic Giraldo) for his Tempura Codfish Clouds with fennel and clementine mustard or accompanied by smoked chicory. On the menu all year round also the cod tartare with diced crispy boiled potatoes, citrus marinade in champagne vinegar, tomato powder and green mizuna leaf (Japanese mustard).