From low and crunchy to slice tasting, the best addresses in the capital. Divided by type of pizza to satisfy all tastes
For years a Rome the dispute between admirers of the so-called Roman pizza and lovers of the Neapolitan version was consummated. The former accused by the latter of adoring a kind of cracker; the last to eat a never-enough-cooked pizza. But, as you know, virtue lies somewhere in between and so the new wave of “grown Roman pizza” has happily entered the ring – making everyone agree – with the proponents of long leavening and the search for the “happy medium”. Among the contenders were then added representatives of the gourmet version, where the attention to the dough is always there, but the principle of tasting in slices reigns, to taste more variations.
Roman Classical and Pinsa
The first, indeed the first, to revolutionize the concept of Roman pizza was Emma, bringing a breath of fresh air to the genre. Then we began to discuss leavening, rolling pin yes / rolling pin no, more or less marked edge, even arriving at a decalogue of Roman pizza. In the end, the experts on the subject who have emerged from this diatribe are Mirko Rizzo, Jacopo Mercuro and Sami El Sabawi. The first can be found in the summer at the Appio park with its open-air Elementare pizzeria and all year round in the pizzeria of the same name just a step away from Piazza Trilussa. Second and third are in Tor Pignattara, a multi-ethnic suburb where half a gastronomic revolution is taking place. With his 180g Jacopo Mercuro is permanently sold out, thanks to a competitive Roman pizza and delicious fried foods, so much so that it has even doubled in times of Covid: the old restaurant has become the starting point for take-away and the new location is the modern home-base of his creations. Sami find it instead from In Rota, a typical Roman expression to say that his pizza is addictive. In fact, the dough convinces and the stuffed pizzas, as they always say in Rome, “rock”. Pier Daniele Seu is also added to the list, in his “Tac! Thin & Crunchy ”, brought to the beach in Ostia for the summer, but let’s talk about him again in the gourmet section.
Since the end of 2016 Rome has become a land of conquest for the most famous Neapolitans. The first to open with its historical brand is the mythological one Michele, with the Condurro family who first opened a branch of the Forcella club in Rome, next to the Explora museum dedicated to children, then one in the Eur area. Another Neapolitan champion followed him: Gino Sorbillo, which first opened in Piazza Augusto Imperatore and then its Gourmand version at the Rinascente in Via del Tritone. Gourmet version also for Salvatore Di Matteo, who instead chose a side street a step away from Palazzaccio to bring his pizza and his sensational fried foods. And, remaining on the subject of fried food, the last Neapolitan to face the Capitoline market was The Masardona, famous for its fried pizzas, which has also chosen a super central place.
Outside the logic of the noble Neapolitans, they have made themselves appreciated with their Neapolitan version of pizza also Angelo Pezzella, which has a place a little outside, a stone’s throw from Capannelle, and in the Furio Camillo area there are instead The Quintiles, by Marco Quintili, who has been appreciated not only for the excellent pizza but also for the monumental Neapolitan omelettes.
Modern Roman impasto
There are two forerunners of the new wave of pizza in Rome: Stefano Callegari and Giancarlo Casa. The first is the father of trapizzini, able to find the “right means” in his pizzerias. First among all, I take it out, in the Cinecittà area, the subject of a recent renovation and reopening, then followed over time by the openings of Round, in the Montesacro area, and of I break up, near San Giovanni. Among the peculiarities, his special recipe for pizza cacio e pepe, with that touch of genius that made him put ice on the base to prevent the pecorino from melting. Patron of The Gatta Mangiona, Giancarlo Casa is able to bring people from all over Rome to Monteverde. On the one hand doughs with guaranteed digestibility, which over time have come closer and closer to the concept of Neapolitan (short cooking and soft consistency), on the other hand happy combinations with pizzas that border on the gourmet genre. Both, both Callegari and Casa, in addition to being proponents of good pizza, are also masters of supplì, so as tradition dictates in Rome, before ordering pizza you can’t help but treat yourself to a supplì. Over time have they joined the two sacred monsters – even surpassing the masters? – students like Pier Daniele Seu, with his Seu Pizza Illuminati (but you can also find it in the reopened Central Market, with a more streamlined card). Romano di Ostia, Seu we find him between Trastevere and Portuense and also from him the reservation is a must. Great study on the dough, excellent selection of raw materials and the ability to combine them with each other and the section of sweet pizzas is brilliant.
As we said, it is necessary to introduce a new category, dedicated to those who offer pizzas that are mostly tastings. Real neutral bases to support daring combinations and products of inestimable value for their goodness. The master and forerunner of the genre is undoubtedly Edoardo Papa, patron of the pizzeria In the Forge, in the Monteverde area. The search for the finest ingredients is his workhorse, for a pizza to be eaten strictly in wedges, to be tasted with the other diners, to taste more versions. The only flaw, the prices are not really popular, which lead this pizzeria to qualify rather in the range of gourmet restaurants. Kingdom of the brothers Alessio and Fabio Mattaccini, Clearance, in the Marconi-Ostiense area is the right pizzeria to have fun with tastings. Here the game gets tough because it involves not only tasting the various proposals in terms of topping, but above all four types of different doughs: classic, classic whole, in the wheel and unsettling. They are served directly in wedges, with a clear invitation to share.